A Few Observations About Kiwi Life

As our adventure draws to a close, it may be useful to memorialize some of our impressions --admittedly skewed by our own experience and possibly inaccurate, for which we apologize-- of everyday New Zealand life. Here are a few random observations.

It is a more egalitarian society than the US, with far fewer displays of conspicuous wealth or, for that matter, poverty and homelessness (although a large chunk of the population seems to be living in vans, at least during the summer months, and parking near those handy public conveniences). In keeping with the somewhat laid back attitude, tattoos are in evidence everywhere, as well as both adults and children walking barefoot (and I'm not referring to the beach).

With respect to basic social services that we used, we can report that the buses run according to a published schedule and are generally right on time, tourist information is readily available in the user-friendly setting of an I-Site, and even small towns feature public libraries, like this one in the Wairarapa region, where we were given free access to Internet.

There is a noticeable absence of suburban sprawl and strip malls throughout most of the North Island, at least compared to the US, and the small specialty shop (toys; stationery; etc) is very much alive and well. Moreover, some rather monumental buildings appear in the smaller urban areas, such as this Victorian-era opera house in Wanganui.

There is a serious concern about the risks of ozone depletion and skin cancer, and public warnings to wear sun protection and hats, which are on sale everywhere.

In a country with so much dairy farming throughout, it is not surprising that the ice cream is outstanding. It's available everywhere in small "dairies", akin to our 7-11's but featuring handscooped ice cream in a variety of flavors, like the popular Hokey Pokey (vanilla with bits of toffee).

There are many medium-priced restaurants, called cafes, offering WONDERFUL coffee (esp. the "flat white", with its decorative topping) and pastries, as well as small meals. Customers place their orders at the register and are given a number to carry back to a table to await their meal. The food eventually appears-- but service is typically VERY slow and you have no assigned wait person with whom to register your impatience. However, there is usually a wide selection of beers available on draft (Monteith has several varieties; Steinlager; Tui) or in bottles (some of which have "pop tops", like soda cans), and the chips (below, served with aioli in the Auckland area) are outstanding. The long wait simply means that you drink more until the meal arrives. There is no tipping, which is the norm for other personal services as well (e.g., hair cuts).

The issue of the relationship between the Maori population and those of European descent (or "Pakeha's", meaning "stranger" in Maori) seems to be very politically charged. It is a long and difficult history, and in the nineteenth century not unlike the US historical experience with Native Americans; but the issue remains much more centrally placed on the political radar screen in NZ, and Maoris play an important part in the political process. Maori is now an official language, and one TV station offers programming in Maori. I'm certainly not qualified to offer an opinion on the matter, other than to observe that it is clearly a sensitive topic. For greater appreciation of the cultural dimension, the film "Whale Rider" is highly recommended.

Perhaps reflecting the rural connections or heritage of many New Zealanders (my impression is that even many urban dwellers seemed to be only 1 or 2 generations removed from a sheep farm), gardening is a near-religion, and it shows. Lovely flowers and landscaping seem to spring up everywhere.

8. The passion for gardening is also reflected in the parks that proliferate in New Zealand's cities and towns, like Pukekura Park in New Plymouth. It was decorated with lights for the Christmas/New Year's holiday, and had nightly outdoor concerts, as well as displays of model airplanes in flight, which attracted a large and appreciative crowd.

(and, yes, there are A LOT of sheep....)

Movie tickets are comparatively expensive, and the practice in many downtown theaters of having assigned seats, as in live theater, seems unnecessary and inefficient.

OK, I've devoted much space on this blog to commenting on wall murals, but they really are striking. And just who produces them anyway, and at whose direction? Regrettably, this must remain a mystery, although sometimes they are signed or credit is given to a school or a group of art students.Beaches-- sometimes lovely, sometimes desolate, and largely empty. The first, below, was at Whangamata, on the bike trip, which had a golden beach that stretched endlessly. This was a Pacific coast beach, in contrast to the second --more desolate, less inviting--which was on the west coast, on Cook Strait near Makara Beach.

We can't resist one more note of praise for public toilets and their often whimsical exteriors, even on the humble example below (in Cape Ferry).

Another word of praise for the Kiwi sense of style. These next two were in a craft store in Waiheke. The first was a wall hanging with dozens of small metal fish, and the second was part of a painting on--guess what?--corrugated iron.

Finally, the sunsets....

(Posted by Joan on Feb. 10)