Portrait of Wellington

"It is true that this tight intimacy of people and buildings, imposed by the pressure of harbour and hills, makes Wellington different. It is a difference not always appreciated by inhabitants of the flatland cities. Few people simply 'like' Wellington-- they either love it or despise it. Certainly, it is not a city for the faint-hearted." (from Wellington, by Fiona Kidman and Grant Sheehan).

As our six weeks here in Wellington draw to an end, I am certainly in the category of those who love the city, although my feelings have been put to the test by the last two days of fierce and frigid southerlies whipping around, bringing cold rain (everyone claims apologetically that this is an unusually awful summer and blames it on El Nino's effects). But we have had days like that depicted on the left. So perhaps it is appropriate to close the Wellington chapters of the blog with a photographic essay, recording some impressions and memories.

Wellington is a relatively small and compact city, and this geographical aspect is reinforced by the individual identities of its various neighborhoods. Many of the areas and streets here derive their names from the ships that brought the original settlers (e.g., Cuba, Oriental, Tory). Here is a brief look at some of the places we've gotten to know and enjoy.

Let's start with Cuba Street, with a mall at its center. As it moves away at a right angle from the harbor, it becomes tackier, a more modern day Haight Ashbury, set below early 20th century facades.

Wellington also features a variety of Art Deco buildings, which seem to be concentrated in the area below Mt. Victoria. However, they are a bit lost between the Victorian "gingerbread" houses and the more modern structures around them.

Neighborhoods have their own histories and identities. Thorndon, known for the house where Katherine Mansfield lived, once housed "workers' cottages", which have now been gentrified. The main street is lined with antique shops and restaurants.

In nearby Wadestown, we were finally able to experience a private cable car, visiting our displaced landlady for lunch where she was housesitting. You can get a sense of the height from the rail on which the car rides. At the end of "Happy Valley" (mentioned in my Dec. 9 post "The Quirky Side of Kiwi Live") is Island Bay, facing the South Island (and the southerlies), and known for its Italian fishermen.

Close to Victoria University, Kelburn is perched at the top of the Botanic Gardens and is the destination of the cable car. As elsewhere, houses have been ingeniously perched on its hillsides.

And, finally, we get to Oriental Bay, Wellington's "touch of the Mediterranean" (at least on a good day). Oriental Parade features a constant stream of people out strolling, jogging, cycling, on scooters, or just sitting on the seawall fishing. At its heart is the Freyberg Pool, built in 1960, with its notable angled roof and glass walls allowing light into the pool area.

Houses are situated to afford the best views of the harbor and the beach area.

As we're about to begin the "road trip" phase of our NZ adventure, we bid a fond farewell to windy Welly (image below of "the sun rising over the eastern hills on a cloudy windless morning" (HA!!) is taken from Wellington Harbour: A Heritage of Tara, by D.R. Neilson).

(Posted by Joan on Jan. 16)